Shakin it down with the pygmies

I've heard it said about the Ba'aka that they tend to enjoy anything that intoxicates them.  That's possibly true - we were constantly followed around with requests for "monsieur, un cigarette, un cigarette", and they have many interesting brews and concoctions of their own.  They also love a good party.  A few days ago, the night before the net hunting excursion, one such party took place.  It seems to be a tradition that the celebrations are held the night before a hunt to ensure success and, having stood a round of drinks for the village, that night we were the guests of honour.

Things kicked off early.  That afternoon, local election hustings had been held in Bayanga, the town a short distance from our village.  We couldn't really understand what the candidates were saying, but it was clear that beer had been a key part of the proceedings.  On the way back from Bayanga, we were overtaken by a group of Ba'aka women who had clearly been 'enjoying' the political debate and, having heard that there was a party tonight, were now, like most of the surrounding villages, coming along to join the fun.  "Danser, danser!" we were encouraged as we walked along the path, and we were given several demonstrations of how to swing your hips, pygmy style.

By around 7pm, shortly after dark, the music had started.  Everyone was gathered around the fire in the centre of the village, and the drums started first, setting up a steady rhythm against which the singing, chanting, clapping and general merriment lasted until dawn.  Central to all this was the dancing -  in a slow steady line around the fire, and the white guys, several feet taller than their hosts, joined the line.

The drinks on offer were not to my liking.  I had a flagon of some kind of brew that we had paid for - it tasted of vinegar and dishwater and, despite my generous serving, didn't feel particularly alcoholic.  I also had a smaller serving of something, definitely stronger, which tasted of old bootlaces.  I decided I'd leave them to do the drinking, and just enjoy the atmosphere - this was, after all, no half hearted traditional dance display put on for tourists.  Gathered around the fire, men, women, young and old were singing, dancing, drinking and smoking together. Everyone was invited, and many had walked great distances to be where it was all happening.

Tonight, our village was the place to be.